Garage Door Won't Open: What to Do Right Now
A garage door that won't open can be anything from a dead remote battery to a broken spring. A few safe checks will tell you which camp you're in before you call anyone.
Work through the quick, hands-off checks below. If the door still won't budge — or you heard a bang before it stopped working — stop and get a tech, because forcing it makes most problems worse.
If this is unsafe or getting worse right now, don't wait — call and we'll route you straight to an independent local pro.
What to do in the first 5 minutes
- Check power: make sure the opener is plugged in and its breaker hasn't tripped, and try a wall switch if you have one.
- Swap the remote battery and try the wall button — if the wall button works but the remote doesn't, it's just the remote.
- Look and listen for a broken spring: a loud bang earlier plus a gap in the coil above the door means you should stop and call a pro.
- Only if the door is fully closed, pull the manual release cord (the red handle) to disconnect the opener, then try lifting gently by hand.
- If the door feels extremely heavy or won't stay up on its own, re-latch nothing and call a local tech — that's a spring or cable, not the opener.
Do not do this
- Never pull the manual release cord while the door is open — it can drop suddenly under its own weight.
- Never keep pressing the opener if the door isn't moving; you can burn out the motor or damage the track.
- Never touch, adjust, or attempt to fix the springs or cables — they're under extreme tension.
- Don't stand under a partially open door while you troubleshoot.
What's likely going on
Power or remote issue
A tripped breaker, unplugged opener, or dead remote battery is the most common and cheapest cause. Rule these out first — they cost nothing to check.
Broken spring
If the door won't lift even after you disconnect the opener, a snapped torsion spring is the likely culprit. This needs a pro; the door will feel far heavier than normal.
Snapped or off cable
Cables can fray or jump the drum, leaving the door crooked or stuck. Like springs, cables are under tension and aren't a DIY fix.
Opener or logic-board failure
Older openers can lose their logic board or gear. If there's power but no motor response at all, a tech can tell whether it's worth repairing or replacing.
Diagnose it now
What it typically costs
Opener repairs commonly run $150–$400, a broken spring $200–$450, and cable repair $150–$250 — all installed. After-hours calls can add $50–$150. A tech will confirm which it is; the low end is often just a remote or sensor, at little more than a service-call fee.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why won't my garage door open even with a new remote battery?
If the wall button also does nothing, check the opener's power and breaker first. If there's power but no movement — or the door won't lift after you disconnect the opener — it's usually a spring, cable, or opener fault that needs a tech.
Is it safe to use the manual release cord?
Only when the door is fully closed. Pulling the red release handle on an open or partly open door can let it fall. With the door down, it's a safe way to disconnect the opener and test whether the door itself moves freely.
How do I know if it's the opener or the spring?
Disconnect the opener with the release cord (door closed) and try lifting by hand. If it lifts smoothly and stays put, the opener is the problem. If it's extremely heavy or won't stay up, it's a spring or cable — stop and call a pro.
The service that handles this
Guidance only — independent local providers assess and price their own work. Last reviewed 2026-07.
Prefer to just talk to someone?
Call or send the short form — we'll route you to an independent local pro.